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Thanks for your comment. All great points indeed. Yes I’m fortunate. I have a “lean to” storage shed that shields my chemicals from the elements, especially the sun that allows for plenty of ventilation. As far as the heat degrading the chemicals as a pool service professional I go through my chemicals fairly quickly so there’s never a “long-term” storage issue with most of them. However, things like trichlor granules or my soda ash or acid and because I don’t go through those products as rapidly, but still buy them in bulk to save money, some of those are stored or at least last for well over a year with no degrading of the potency. And mind you I live in Arizona, where we hit triple digits throughout the long four months of our summers. Upwards of 117 to 120°.

Thank you. Keep on sharing and let’s see how quickly we can hit 100k !! 👍

Thank you for your comment. And in answer to your question, definitely when the phosphates are neutralized or killed the inert matter is still in the pool and is typically sucked in via the vacuum or cleaning system to the filter where it’s trapped, which can definitely add to saturating the grid. So, your thought of waiting till it’s almost time to backwash and recharge your filter to add the remover is a good idea. Typically with my client’s pools with the filters, I will add the monthly maintenance dose of phosphate remover to their pool one week and then the following week I will backwash and recharge the filter.

I am so happy to hear that. Glad that this video was helpful and informative. And also glad to hear that you’ve been taking care of your own Pool for 18 years. I hope you’ll subscribe to my channel and share it with others.

Typically, I’d win at high-speed anywhere from 2800 to 3000 RPM

Agreed. I have tried a bunch of different ones and this one has been the best one I’ve ever used. Most effective for sure.

No, you don’t. It’s actually good to have the filter pump running, and the cleaner running as a faucet remover is working because once the phosphates are neutralized to an inert matter the vacuum can suck them into the filter.

Thanks for commenting. But hopefully knowing that the fact that the phosphate remover clouds up when you added it to the pool as an indication that it’s actually working against the phosphates set your mind at ease next time you do it so when it clouds up, it doesn’t cause you to panic. 👍

Glad to help, I would highly recommend looking into the PR 10,000 phosphate remover. I think it’s a better product than the Leslie‘s product.

Yes. For sure.

I would wait 24 -48 hours then backwash and recharge the DE filter. That allows the phosphate remover to kill all of the phosphates and the filter to trap them.

Phosphates are food for algae. If phosphates get to high you will start gowning an algae farm. I use Perfect Weekly from Leslie Pools. Seems to work pretty well for me.

Sounds like Mustard (or Yellow) algae. Phosphates are food for Black, Green and Yellow (Mustard) algae. As far as is the algae harmful to swimmers. I'm not a doctor so I can't really comment on that.

Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you will subscribe to my channel and please share it with everyone you know.

Sorry to hear that. I try to make the videos as simple, but thorough as possible.

I was trained by a few different pool service owners who used soda ash to raise the pH of the pool. Typically soda Ash has little to no affect on the alkalinity. But if you want to try borax, you can try it.

Seems like you have your returns set for the spa so set your returns back for the pool. And also if you have any dirt or debris coming back through the returns when you vacuum your pool, whether it’s the spa or the pool returns typically that means your filter, Media is saturated or too dirty and can’t hold anymore dirt. I’m going to guess that you have a sand filter so I suggest you backwash the filter filter backwash and recharge it if it’s a cartridge filter clean the cartridges and inspect them because it’s possible if it’s a cartridge filter, you might have a torn cartridge, which is whydirt. Is getting through.

I've not heard of that. Sorry.

Thanks for the suggestion. Much appreciated. 👍

I agree with your statement about California and how they label stuff. However, DE is also very dirty and there’s no doubting that if you get D in your eye, it can and cut the eyelid and lens of your eye. I’ve had both happened to me. The only reason, people filters is because of how well they filter out the smallest particles out of all pool filters. However, with Dr Drydens Activate sand filter glass substitute a sand filter will filter out articles between one and 3 µm which is as good if not better than a DE filter without the added work and mess extra maintenance of a filter. I did a video on it and it would be worth watching: Sand Filter Media That's Better Than DE! ruclips.net/video/sVIe0f878VQ/видео.html

I have not. Personally I'd be concerned about a metal basket eventually getting rusty or corroded over and exposing some sharp edges over time. But if you find it works best for you that's great. 👍

So glad to hear that. Thanks for commenting.. Hope you'll subscribe to my channel and share it with others.

@PoolSchooler I've been subscribed for a while because I find that you explain things very well and you make it simple to understand. I refer to your video every time I backwash my D.E filter. I had never seen your "algae and algaecides" video before and it really simplified it for me

YES absolutely. It's one of my fav products to use.

Indeed. They are outrageous. Long story short a year before Co_ _ _ the plants that made the tablets caught fire (some genius when they were being built thought it'd be a 'great' idea to build them right next to each other. So when the one caught fire, the other one did too and they lost most of their supply of TriChlor. That's the story I heard. And from then on the cost went way up.

Right?! 😉 I did a series on Salt pools I'm working on sorting my videos into playlists to make it easier to find them. I'll start with Salt Pools. Stay tuned.

Glad to help.

Thank you for your very kind comments. I’m so glad my channel has been helpful to you and that you’ve been able to enjoy your pool more. Hopefully you subscribed to my channel and please share it with others.

Please see why reply to your other comment.

To be honest I wouldn't worry too much about your ph or alkalinity. I'd suggest watching these videos they may really help: ruclips.net/video/v2ONe9Z8iKo/видео.htmlsi=5KT-3giKBw76eoQN ruclips.net/video/wP_2y2HVxvg/видео.htmlsi=ive9FfPP3KuleRV6 ruclips.net/video/3BiVsHHNaS8/видео.htmlsi=y4bw6iDMPkU3AnGF

I appreciate the compliment. Thank you for commenting.

Thank you. And thanks for watching and commenting. Hope you will subscribe to my channel and share it with others.

Sorry bout that. I make these in the field so I can't carry a lot of gear.

In my opinion and experience, yes. Each time you cycle it it pulls out a little bit more. At one time I worked for a guy who only backwashed it once, and the grids had to be taken apart and cleaned more often that way, and he seemed to have a lot of the grid terror, more frequently as well. That said cycling it three times the way I show in this video really cleans the grids as much as possible so that typically you don’t have to pull the filter apart more than once a year to really thoroughly clean them and inspect them for tears and wear

I actually have a client who has four floating crocodile heads that tend to keep the ducks and pigeons away

Once again, and to be honest, you shouldn’t have to mix it with water first. In my above ground pools and I’ve had three over the course of 15 years. I have never had to mix any of my chemicals with water first. Soda, ash, baking soda, liquid chlorine, liquid acid, faucet remover, none of those need to be pre-diluted with water. If you’re concerned about granular chlorine, the vinyl liner of your pool, then you could, mix that with freshwater in a clean bucket.

@@PoolSchooler yes i use baking soda and just put little bits all around my pool 30'x 15' above ground

This video should help you prevent your algae problem: ruclips.net/video/y4hac4beQsc/видео.htmlsi=EWpBsMnc8zXRSQNw Please watch this video completely.

Glad they bring back such good memories. Including the blazing summer heat and monsoon dust storms? 🤪😂

Once that skimmer basket wears out it may be a good idea to invest in a heavy duty skimmer basket. They're heaver (no need for a rock) and they last a lot longer. You can get one at this link: amzn.to/4ev6Aco

@@PoolSchooler will that fit in my skimmer? are all skimmers the same size?

@@PoolSchooler i dioi appreciate your help!!!

@@harleyinred most of them are the same size. So if you have a standard skimmer basket, the heavy duty oneshould fit.

@@PoolSchooler my basket is6.2 across, 3 high, 3.7 bottom.

You're welcome.

No it'a also for above ground pools making sure to run the pump motor while adding. I used these on my above ground pools all the time.

@@PoolSchooler can you dilute it with water?

@@harleyinred You can if you like. Use a clean bucket AND DO NOT mix it with anything but water (NO OTHER CHEMICALS).

@@PoolSchooler okay, i mix my chlorine with water , water first then chlorine, would it be the same for the phosphate remover?

@@harleyinred because the faucet remover is liquid you can pour that directly around the perimeter of your Above Ground Pool again. Make sure that you’re running your filter pump motor while doing it to help distribute product. Also remember the phosphate remover will cloud up the water and that’s evidence that it’s working on destroying phosphates. It should clear up in a few hours.

I used muriatic acid in my above ground pool no problem. Just make sure your pump motor is running and don't over dose it (no more than 1 qt at a time).

Absolutely. I used to use it on my above ground pool no problem.

Hard for me to say since I don't have any experience with them. Sorry. 😢

@@PoolSchooler appreciate you getting back to me. thank you

@@bujiknits Of course. Sorry I couldn't be any more help on that.

A couple possibilities. First, it could be that the latex of the diaphragm is old or decay. You have to store those a cool dry place away from the elements. So it could be the age of the diaphragm. It also could be that you have too much suction going to the vacuum and that pressing it and tearing it. Lastly, it could be a poor quality product that you purchased. I might suggest contacting the place you got them from asking for a refund and then look for another source.

I can understand your confusion. Typically in my experience all the salt systems that I have serviced over the years have said that the ideal range of salinity is 2800 to 3400 ppm, however, and to be fair to whatever pool supply company you went to, There is a possibility that your particular model or brand of salt cell only needs that level to be OK. However, to be certain I would double check with the model and your particular salt cell/system to determine which is correct. Then you will know for sure. It would just take a simple Google search.

You’re welcome